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Frank (9/4/2008)
TxZHP (9/3/2008) At this point, the issue driving my change is the fact that my stock dual mass flywheel often sounds like a jackhammer after startup. I believe the halves have separated. It is interesting that you mention the jack hammer sound. I have an E39 540 6 spd. At idle in neutral with the clutch pedal out, I have this sound like something is broken and rattling around in the trans or the clutch. If I push the clutch in it goes away completely. The sound intensity is varaible and even absent at times even with the clutch out. It is never there when in a gear and moving. I was wondering if yours sounds the same? No way to tell for sure without hearing it. In my case though, it doesn't seem to matter whether the clutch is engaged or not and it only does it right after starting the car. Sometimes a quick jab at the clutch pedal will re-align the 2 halves of the flywheel enough to reduce or eliminate it though - often a quick stab of the throttle will do the same thing. Either way, once I start driving the problem goes away until I shut the car off again. My theory is that the 2 halves of the flywheel come to rest separately causing their relative orientation to spin all the way in one direction of motion (which is now probably greater than it should be). Then when I start the car back up again, I get the rattle until I do something that causes the 2 halves to spin all the way back in the other direction again. Placing a load on the flywheel by driving off does the trick and sometimes while still parked I can help things along with the throttle or clutch.
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Jeron (9/4/2008) Frank those are the exact circumstances for gear lash, which is a lightweight flywheel problem.I've read all about this, how bad is it in reality? I've got a new tune on the way which will bump my idle speed up close to 900 rpm to help quiet the rattle of the twin screw lobes at idle - think I'd still hear the LWF induced rattle at this higher idle speed?
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| Jeron, I have tried both Red Line and Royal Purple's synchromax to no effect. I have not tried UUC's recommended mix of gear lube and ATF to silence noisy gearboxes due to lite wt flywheels since my flywheel and clutch is OEM Frank.
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| TxZHP, Thanks for the reply and the detailed description. Clearly my problem is unrealted to yours. Frank
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Frank (9/4/2008)
I am familiar with the lt wt flywheel noise issue and UUC's comments. But my clutch and pp is OEM. I thought, I recalled you bringing this up before. The UUC heavier weight oil fix has not worked for me plus it makes my syncros slow so I have shifting problems when cold. When cold the stock tranny oil is thicker than even the UUC heavy weight oil blend. So the reason I asked about if yours does it when cold is, if the problem does not occur when cold then it is likely gear lash and switching to heavier oil might reduce the noise.
Jeron BMW / PCA / Apex HPDE Instructor 97 M3/4 Byzanz/Magma; 2001 330i Silver/Gray; 97 R1100RT; 91 F-150 5.8l
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TxZHP (9/4/2008)
Jeron (9/4/2008) Frank those are the exact circumstances for gear lash, which is a lightweight flywheel problem.I've read all about this, how bad is it in reality? I've got a new tune on the way which will bump my idle speed up close to 900 rpm to help quiet the rattle of the twin screw lobes at idle - think I'd still hear the LWF induced rattle at this higher idle speed? It depends on how much annoying noises bother you. Mine makes a ton of noise no matter what oil I use. Options are: Keep the clutch depressed Bump the idle a bit with the accelerator Ear plugs Turn the radio up Chipping it to 900 rpm idle should work.
Jeron BMW / PCA / Apex HPDE Instructor 97 M3/4 Byzanz/Magma; 2001 330i Silver/Gray; 97 R1100RT; 91 F-150 5.8l
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| Jeron, Its possible/probable that I did bring this up once before since I've been living with it for some time. But I'm not going to search for it. Cold weather, as cold as it gets here in Dallas, has not stiffened the manual shift enuff for me to notice it. Looks like I will live with it until I'm forced to do something about it. Thanks for your responses Frank
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Frank, if you had to replace/update you clutch for the e39, which components would you buy this time? I still have OEM clutch with 70k miles and one day I will have to do this. BTW: did you install this yourself??
Barry 214-215-7383
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bseidner (10/5/2008) Frank, if you had to replace/update you clutch for the e39, which components would you buy this time? I still have OEM clutch with 70k miles and one day I will have to do this. BTW: did you install this yourself??Hi Barry and sorry I didn't catch your question back when. I currently have OEM components only some of which were covered via an extended warranty and dealer sympathy. Yes sympathy, how strange is that? So my car is on its 2nd clutch, both OEM. In an earlier post in this topic, on page 1, I noted that I will go with RogueEngineering.com and JBRacing.com. Rogue sells JB flywheels. When my clutch goes I will get the light wt JB fly (not the super lt) and the V12 pressure plate from Rogue.
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